RUGGED MAN STYLE

SLOW RIDE...TAKE it EASY....FREE AND EASY dat is...

''It's BEEN a log time I shouldn't a left you without a strong rap to step to...'' I had to throughly refocus my efforts and redesign the blog. Plus some personal concerns kept me busy... So I hope you like the redesign! Anyway, thru various resources ( I will single out the great menswear blogs, A Continuous Lean as well as Mr. Crew, love em'! ) on the web I have recently become a huge fan of the Japanese magazine FREE and EASY. I know I am late to the party but nobody ever said I was ahead of the curve. ( well maybe, I was wearing most of this stuff years ago, but never thought it was anything special, just old clothes, shows you what I know! lol!) But In a short amount of time I have amassed ( as I generally do when I become a fan of something I want to literally devour it, which is why I watch my obsessions VERY carefully) 20 or more issues which I generally drool over whenever I need a little style re charge.

It is basically a catalogue of vintage americana, seen from a Japanese perspective. Over in the land of the rising sun this style is more then a trend, it's an entire way of life. KOOL! Even though I can understand a word of this magazine, It is worth having just for the great pics. If you are into vintage clothes, motorcycles, houses, cars heck they even feature ''rugged'' dogs and food! Talk about focus!! American magazines should take note of the in depth coverage, and what I (assume ) are great articles. GQ, are you listening? Anyway if you are feelin' this stuff get yourself some Free and Easy!...''Slow RIDE do, do, do TAKE it eassy..do do do...''

http://mistercrew.com/http:/

http://www.acontinuouslean.com/

http://rugged.jp/

OAHU and HAWAIIAN GUITARS. Slide, Demaggio SLIDE!!! Part 3

As we have discussed previously, the rise of he popularity of the steel guitar in american and elsewhere precipitated it's use across a wide spectrum of musical styles. The first Hawaiian guitars where standard guitars with the nut raised above the fretboard to allow the bar to slide without hitting it. It was not long before a whole host of manufacturers started creating guitars specifically for Hawaiian style playing. We mentioned the weissenborn guitar before on this blog. In future posts I will talk about some of the others such as Radiotone, The guitars of Chris Knutsen, National and a host of others.

But for today we will talk about one of my fav's, OAHU GUITARS. The Oahu guitar company was established in mid 1920's by Harry G. Stanley in Flint Michigan with the aim of selling/teaching Hawaiian guitar playing to schools and children. They were subleased to other guitar makers such as Regal and Kay. They were sold primarily with sheet music, and other accessories in the same manners as a door to door salesman would sell insurance or vacuum cleaners. It is hard to image a time when this type of music and playing was as popular as Rock and Roll is today.

These guitars came in a wide range of price points, one of the most expensive being The Oahu Jumbo which retailed for 98 dollars. This was an extraordinary amount for that time. I own this guitar and I CAN TELL YOU IT IS AWESOME SOUNDING. It is loud, punchy, with sustain for days, it is perfect when I am feeling ''bluesy'' which is often. It is incredible well made and its solid as a brick. I love playing along to some pals on youtube's posts, or maybe an old Blind Wille Johnson song. Most of these guitars were sold door to door and most of the guitars they sold tended to be on the cheaper side in price and quality. ( It says something about the state of things when the cheapest item from the 30's can more then stand up to some of the most expensive items today. )

If you play slide, and want to learn a little more, or if you are interested in this type of playing but do not know where to start, let me know. There are a lot more resources for this style today as opposed to a few years ago, as many great resources are now available. Till next time, SLIDE Demaggio, SLIIIDE! ( from an old Bugs Bunny cartoon )

http://www.pedalpro.co.uk/folderIndex/folderHTML/SGhistory01.html

OAHU and HAWAIIAN GUITARS. Slide, Demaggio SLIDE!!! Part 2

The San Francisco Expasition of 1915 introduced a number of innovations ( all but one of which we will talk about today ) In the Hawaiian pavilion there were some musicians from the islands playing a style of music that was unlike anything that was ever heard before. From that moment, the Hawaiian Guitar exploded on the shores of the US of A like a thunderbolt. Many people debate as to whether the blues style of slide playing done with a bottle neck developed separately, or were african american musicians were influenced by the Hawaiian style of playing? Hawaiian musicians toured the US extensively in the early part of the century.

( actually several prominent blues singers used the Hawaiian method of playing spectacularly )

From my friends at Petalsteelguitar.net:

''The introduction of Hawaiian music to the mainland US was a major turning point for the next step in the evolution of the musical culture in Hawaii, and the world. In 1915 the ukulele and steel guitar were introduced on the U.S. mainland. That was the year of the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco, where Hawaii hosted a pavilion. The exposition celebrated the completion of the Panama Canal and lasted for 7 months. With exhibits from countries all over the world it attracted more then 17 million people, an amazing number considering the population in those days! The Territory of Hawaii viewed it as an important opportunity to promote its products, land, people and tourism, and the legislature appropriated over $100,000 for a Hawaiian Pavilion. The main attraction turned out to be the Hawaiian show featuring hulas and songs which ran many times a day. The music created a sensation! This was the first time that Hawaiian music had been promoted on the U.S. mainland and it soon swept the country. Not long after, steel guitar was everywhere.''

''Between 1915 and 1941 the U.S. Mainland and the rest of the world embraced the music of Hawaii. Early Tin Pan Alley and Hawaiian songwriters blended Jazz and Big Band era music with Hawaiian music and themes to create a virtual paradise on the radio for people longing for something better during the Great Depression. Hapa Haole (half white) songs with their English lyrics, Hawaiian themes and jazz flavorings fueled the early tourist industry in Hawaii. The music quickly spread around the world influencing many musicians and musical styles including Country Swing, Gospel, and Blues. Today's use of the pedal steel guitar in Country music traces its roots directly to the Hawaiian invention. In those years, the great steel players began to evolve and change the instrument to fit all types of music. Steel was here to stay.''

To be continued!!

OAHU and HAWAIIAN GUITARS. Slide, Demaggio SLIDE!!! Part 1

The late 19th and the beginning of the 20th century was a fascinating time in the annuls of american and world music. Of particular interest was the birth of what would become known as slide guitar. The haunting, ''singing'' tone derived from sliding a hard object such as a bottle neck, or a pocket knife along the strings, is an integral part of several styles of music such as the blues, country and Hawaiian guitar playing.

No one knows exactly what is the exact genealogy of this style. ( which actually encompasses TWO styles of guitar playing, but we will get to that in moment or two ) We surmise that sometime near the turn of the last century, in Hawaii a young boy named Joseph Kekuku, while walking home from school with his guitar near the railroad tracks, accidentally slid a metal spike along the strings. ( From Brads Page of Steel: ''Other persons who have been credited with the invention of the steel guitar includeGabriel Davion, an Indian sailor, around 1885, and James Hoa, a Hawaiian of Portuguese ancestry''.)Guitars had been in Hawaii for several decades up till then. The guitars were tuned to an open chord. This was the start of what was called ''Slack Key'' guitar playing. From About.com:

''As we know guitars while some guitars may have made their way to Hawaii in the early 1800's along with the many European sailors who visited Hawaii, the origin of Hawaiian guitar music is generally credited to the Mexican and Spanish cowboys who were hired by King Kamehameha III around 1832. It was from the Hawaiian cowboys, or paniolos, that the tradition of Hawaiian slack key guitar music finds its roots.''

The sound of the steel moving on the strings so intrigued Joseph that he devoted several years to teaching himself to play in this manner. This style of play was a revelation. The guitar, instead of being held in the conventional manner is played flat on the players lap facing up. A hard object such as a steel bar is moved back and forth against the strings. This sound was ( and is ) so infectious, so unique, and SO soulful that it was a hit immediately. ( There was and is another way to play of course, being the ''bottle neck style'' where you use the neck of a bottle to slide along the strings the guitar being held in the regular manner. ) From Hollowneck's website:

''The fact that the string is not actually fretted is what gives Steel Guitar it's "microtonality", meaning that the player has access to "the notes between the notes" and can sharpen or flatten the pitch of the note being played by any amount & add expressive vibrato effects.''

The style caused a sensation, and people all over the island started taking it up. Masters emerged, Joseph among them. But it did not hit the shores of the USA until ( reportedly ) the San Francisco exposition of 1915 Then things got real jazzy. To be continued....!

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

''It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way - ''

So, I decided to kick off my Sunday with a morning movie. TCM, my favorite cable station, was showing 'A Tale of Two Cities' one of my favorites. Of course it was NOT the version I was most familiar with, ( the 1932 version ) but the 1958 movie. Which was fine considering I had never seen it, but for my money the 32' version is the definitive one.

You probably know the story from High School, but check the link for a refresher on background. This is a very spiritual movie. JESUS is all over this one. Gotta love Charles Dickens! Anyway, thanks Wiki. Till next time...

''It is a far better thing that I do then I have ever done, a far far better resting place I go to then I have ever known..''

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Tale_of_Two_Cities

RRL

RRL is the best of RALPH LAUREN's other brands. Named after RL's ranch, the line features vintage and vintage inspired clothes, american workwear, shoes and vintage accessories. Started in the early naughty 1990's as a kind of old style dry goods store/vintage outlet, the brand never really caught on and faded from view for a bit.

It became more of an underground thang, sought mostly by hard core vintage lovers and japanese tourists. But, the stuff is awesome, and I buy it mostly on EBAY. Forget the overdone, flashy, RUGBY line, which sort of steals it's concept. This store is GREAT if your style is looking like 1930's sharecropper, like me.

RRL is a favorite of most style bloggers out there, I have been hip to it for a minute now ( most of my jeans are RRL, and I love em'. ) The only downside is that there is NO online store, very little advertising, and it is really expensive. IF you live next to a store ( LA, NYC, etc. ) go check it out, as the stuff is well made and the store's designs and displays are fantastic. Till next time.

Take INVENTORY...

Inventory ( formally H(y) R collective, a blog and on line mag I used to read every chance I got ) is now a magazine/on-line store published/managed by the fantastic Ryan Williams and Co. based out of Canada. These guys are in the upper ranks in the current trend of 'Americana' in mens wear. This magazine is less about 'fashion' and more about STYLE and quality.

With a awesome layout, striking photographs, and interesting articles this magazine is a MUST have if you even remotely interested in quality goods. The blurb under the title on the cover says it all: ''A curation of ideas in product, craft and culture'' this says it all.

Some of the great products featured are Mr. Freedom, Nom de Guerre, and Nigel Cabourn, all of whom are center stage in this current surge toward well made clobber. It's like my old friend Eddy used to say: ''Keep it simple, Keep it REAL'' Do ya self a 'flavor' and get this mag. Google some of the names I dropped if you are interested. READ Inventory's Blog and get ed-u-ma-cated... Adios for now...

http://inventorymagazine.com/

I love BORSALINO hats.

love Borsalino hats. BUT do me a favor. If you see me wearin' one don't CALL ME A PIMP. I HATE that. Why can't I be Robert Johnson or Langston Huges?

Not all brothers wearing hats equate being a PIMP as something to aspire to. But thats another post. Check this vid out from the Borsalio factory...

THE EVO-lution!!!

OHHH...The EVO. One of my DREAM cars. IF I could have any car(s) in the world, a super modified evo ( stands for Evolution followed by a number to delineate the model number/year )the would be one of them. It debuted in 1992 to little fanfare as a sporty version of the NOT impressive Lancer compact sedan. Nearly two decades later it has been transformed to a near mythic SUPERCAR which can challenge some of the fastest cars in the world, and do it with just 4 cylinders and a turbo. Matter of fact the Evo's engine is as small as a container of MILK!!! Anywho, Evo's are loved by gearheads, Japanese car lovers and RALLY racing enthusiasts ( like me ) If you have never seen this car in action, you need to check it out. Or better yet go over to Mitsubishi and beg for a test drive. Just make sure your huevos are LARGE enough because this car has a mean streak bigger then TEX-AS. Check out those crazy cats from Ole' Blighty....the boys at Top Gear. EVO VS. the Lambo. Dig the vid: Till next time....

GOOD ADVICE.

Good advice from Jim Jarmusch. Sort of sums up yesterday's post about ''borrowing'' style. Who's Jim Jarmusch?? Shame on you. see below. Till next time boy-o!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jim_Jarmusch

DENIM VIDEOS: Part 2

http://www.vimeo.com/7391362

Check this link out. I am on a denim kick lately seeing as how I will not be buying ANY jeans in 2010. Good info here. Enjoy....PS: check out the GREAT blog ''Put this on'' as well. These guys got it goin' on.

http://putthison.com/

EARLY DYLAN.

THERE is NOT too much I can say about ole' BOBBY. He is the epitome of american coolness. Check the steez:

- His early LOOK. BEFORE the motorcycle accident, before the big FAME. Dig it: Work shirts, KOOL SHADES, VINTAGE JEANS, hats and beat up BOOTS and leather/suede JACKETS. What I live in, ask my wife, I got piles of this stuff. Most of it vintage from the 50's and 60's. They made stuff that was going to LAST back then.

-His Tunes: Songs that cut right to the core of you, songs that shouted in his own spectacular way, ''Hey that ain't right''. All great men of style usually ''borrow'' from a ROLE MODEL. Bob's was Woody Gunthrie ( who I have written about before ) Find your own role model. Then build something NEW from it.

Do your wardrobe AND your ears a FAVOR. Get some of these classics. The clothes AND his tunes. Your girlfriend/wife will thank you for it. Till next time,

''It ain't no use to sit and wonder why, babe
It don't matter, anyhow
An' it ain't no use to sit and wonder why, babe
If you don't know by now
When your rooster crows at the break of dawn
Look out your window and I'll be gone
You're the reason I'm trav'lin' on
Don't think twice, it's all right''

Thanks Bob. For everything....

The BLACK BOOK.

My dear mama got this BOOK for me for CHRISTMAS. ( thats right, CHRIST-mas. Not the ''holidays'' ) Christ is the reason for the season, son, you better RECONIZE! Anyway this book was originally released 35 years ago as a snapshot of African American history, a sort of scrapbook that might have been kept by a black person IF they had lived for 300 years in this country. My father had a original copy and I would always drool over it. I wanted to sneak that badboy out of his house hee hee....anyway, It is an amazing document with all kinds of information, pictures of inventions, notable people, african history, obituaries and pictures of lynchings. Yes some of the imagery is disturbing, but hey THIS is WHAT happened HERE in the US of A. I love it, I cannot put it down. Check the link below if you want to take a peek inside. Till next time, Holla!

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Book-35th-Anniversary/dp/1400068487/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262830524&sr=8-1

THE THIRD MAN theme. Da Zither!

The THIRD MAN stands as one of my favorite movies. Set in post war Vienna, the story follows a broken down alcoholic writer ( played by Joseph Cotton ), who travels there searching for a friend ( a fantastic Orsen Wells ) who is mixed up in some shady business. You can get it at Netflix as it is a must see. It also has one of the most memorable ending shots in movie history . I love this film. But what really stands out for me is the theme played on the ZITHER by Anton Karas. The director Carol Reed needed music appropriate for the time and place, and he heard Karas playing in a club one night and was enraptured by the sound of his playing. While Karas had no experience in film scoring or in soundtracks, Reed worked closely with him for a few weeks and the theme they came up with remains iconic in the world of film scores. Once you hear this music I guarantee it will stay with you for days. The Zither is an interesting instrument, played in a manner similar to the Hawaiian guitar, flat on the players lap while the right hands frets the notes on a board similar to a dulcimar. Check out the video below. Till next time, stay frosty.

CHAMBRAY is here to STAY.

Unless you have been living under a ROCK for the past two years or so, you should know that American work wear is HOT right now ( Not for me, I have been wearing this stuff for years, about time everyone ELSE caught up, lol! ) One the mainstay items of this look ( besides selvedge denim which we have discussed already. ) is the Chambray shirt. Dig the history from Stitch and Save:

"Chambray is a fine, lightweight fabric designed from cotton. It is made with a dyed warp (lengthwise strands of the loom) and a white or unbleached filling (horizontal strands.) Chambray can also be woven using an alternating white and colored warp. Both carded and combed yarns are used, with a white selvage (edge of fabric.) The weave is either plain or dobby (comprised of small, geometric figures) on a plain-weave ground. Chambray can be designed with stripes or checks, or embroidered.

Chambray Characteristics

Chambray is a strong fabric with a smooth surface, designed with a tight weave. The material is soft and comfortable, with a slight luster. Chambray has very soft coloring, which causes it to appear with a faded look. Chambray is easy to sew and wears well, yet wrinkles easily unless crease resistant.

Chambray History

Chambray originated in Cambrai, Northern France, where the fabric was first designed and used to create sunbonnets.''

Of course, today shirts and now other items made by companies such as The Hill-Side are the primary items made out of Chambray. Do ya-self a favor and git yourself something made from this great material. It's rugged good looks work well on just about anyone ( Yeah even YOU Tough Guy! ) Check J.Crew, or if you got mad dough, places like Self Edge or Blue in Green got the goods as well. Check the links below. NOW Go get Handsome. Later.

http://thehill-side.com/

http://blueingreensoho.com/

http://www.selfedge.com/

http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Navigation/Men.jsp

TheLONious ''The LION'' MonK

WEIRD headwear. ODD habits. SHARP dresser. MUSICAL Genius. American ICON. ONE of my style hero's. I get MY love of ODD hats from HIM. ( and my pop's ). There is a book about his life out now. Check it: http://www.amazon.com/Thelonious-Monk-Times-American-Original/dp/0684831902/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262396232&sr=1-1 Stay kool ya Dig? Peace.

NEW's YEar'S 'REVolutionS'

Happy New Year! The start of the year always presents itself as a chance to begin again, to make something ( most likely yourself ) The history of New Year's resolutions is interesting indeed. According to ABC local:

''According to legend, the history of New Year's Resolutions goes back a couple thousand years.
Historians indicate the roots stem from the mythical Roman King Janus (We still use his name for the first month of the year -- January).

Janus was known as the god of beginnings and became the ancient Roman symbol for resolutions.

He was also said to be two-faced. No, he wasn't a hypocrite, but was believed to have a face in the back of his head as well as the front. This unique feature enabled the king to look back into the past and ahead toward the future. Janus also became known as the guardian of entry ways (and doors as well).

The New Year was celebrated by Romans who used Janus as a symbol of the occasion while seeking forgiveness from their enemies. It was also a time to exchange gifts with one another.

During the Middle Ages, Christians moved New Year's Day to December 25 -- hence the blurry division of New Year's celebrations and the Christmas holiday. The official New Year's Day was then moved to March 25 and called "Annunciation."

Pope Gregory XIII sorted everything out in the 16th century when he revised the Julian calendar and returned the New Year's celebration to January 1.''

So What ARE your Resolutions? REVOLUTIONS? Mine are:

1. UPDATE this blog regularly ( I have been a bad 'putty tat'. )

2. MORE school. ( for work and play )

3. GET a job. ( one is in the pipe line I am praying...)

4. SAVE money. ( STOP buying. Especially Clothes which I DO NOT NEED )

5. MAKE Art. ( making it, seeing it, reading about it...)

6. PLAY more guitar ( and learn at least 10 songs WELL. )

7. KEEP a Journal. ( both Prayer and Art )

8. READ my bible. ( and other books one a month at least )

9. EAT better. ( more RAW less processed foods. )

10. WORK harder. ( at everything. Stop being lazy )

12. EXERCISE. ( 5 times a week again, I am LAZY! )

13. LOVE ( show it to people who DO NOT deserve it, like ME. )

14. HELP ( those who need it, when I CAN and when I can't. )

15. STAY ( away from EBAY and DAFFYS. Period! )

Those are MINE. What are yours? Let me know. Till next time!